11/30/2003: I Hate Captured Nuts
6 bolts hold on a plate that goes below the driveshaft tunnel, supporting the driveshaft center bearing and the emergency brake mechanism. Unfortunately, the nuts on the other side of the floor are inside of the seat mounting rails, and are just captured nuts, held by flimsy sheet metal boxes, which easily bent, letting the nuts spin.
Although two bolts were missing and one did come out on its own, the remaining 3 just spun no matter what I tried to do.
After trying to figure out how to hold the spinning nuts, I finally just gave up and used a cut-off wheel on an angle grinder and cut off the heads of the remaining 3 bolts.
Success! The plate is finally off!
I’ll have to remove the rest of the cut-off bolts and messed up nut cages when I repair the floor. I expect i’ll just drill access holes in the seat rails and use normal nuts when I reassemble this. It should be less troublesome.
11/2/03: Ignition Coil
I removed the ignition coil from the car and confirmed that, as I expected, it’s not original. It’s an aftermarket US-made piece, rather than the original Magneti Marelli part. I rummaged through my spare parts stash and found two Marelli coils. The service manual mentions two original coils, a BE200B and a Z-TK12A17. I confirmed that one of mine is marked BE-200B, so that will be the one I’ll try to use.
I will have to confirm that it matches the service manual’s specs for primary and secondary winding resistance first though- no sense in painting it out if it’s got a broken winding.
As near as I can tell, the BE-200B is pretty common on all sorts of FIATs and other italian cars, so it won’t be hard to find another if mine is shot. I also don’t have any real objection to using a non-original coil- it’s just going to be painted black anyway, and it hides under the fender, so it doesn’t matter much. But given the choice between an original style one and one that’s not, of course i’d prefer to have it be correct.
11/2/2003: Sorting, Cleaning, Painting
Last night I worked on the air cleaner assembly. It’s fairly rust-pitted, but essentially solid. The one from #40912 was in rougher shape in general, but somewhat less rusty. I believe I will use the lid from that one with the body from my car. I have to finish sandblasting them before I can be sure.
Today I started to clean up and organize some of the parts which I hadn’t put away yet, and I dug into the spare parts stash to find some parts which needed replacement. I found one good interior door opening handle which was in considerably better shape than the ones which came off the car. I also found a replacement for the thermostat housing bolt which I snapped off while disassembling the car.
I also started a box of parts to be zinc-plated. This includes most bolts on the car. (If I just wire brush them and put them back on, they’ll rust on me, and painting them isn’t durable) Where possible, i’d like to maintain the original fiat bolts, since they have specific head markings. I will look into just buying new nuts and washers, as I imagine they aren’t expensive, and it’s probably simpler.
I also have a few items, including a decent oil cap from #40912, which need to a yellow cadmium or yellow zinc dichromate coating. I’m probably going to end up spending the $150 or so for the Caswell Copy-Cad kit, which is able to do regular, yellow, or black zinc coatings.
I finished up today by working on the two little cover plates which go on the car’s floor and cover the subframe mounting points. One was in very rough shape and will need replacment. Since it’s just a flat piece of sheet metal with 3 holes in it, this is no big deal.
The other cleaned up well, with some pitting on one side and very little on the other. I’ve painted it (and some other small brackets) with POR-15, and will be installing it on the opposite side of the car, so the pitted side is face d own. The other I will fabricate using this good one as a pattern.
I need to buy some open-cell foam which goes beneath them, presumably to keep them from rattling against the floor of the car and to provide some minimal sealing against water. I have a number of foam-type substances I need to replace, such as the gasket around the fuel sender cover in the floor of the trunk and the gasket around the air cleaner lid. (which had turned into a gooey mess).
I also need some rubber items, such as the bump stops for the brake and clutch pedals and some missing body plugs. I’ll check #40912 to see if I can salvage a few.
10/29/2003: What have I been doing?
For the last week or so, i’ve been trying to familiarize myself with some of the processes and materials I’ll need to use to transform all the small rusty parts of this car into attractive ones.
To start with, I bought a small “mix pack” of POR15 paint and their “Chassis Coat Black” topcoat paint. POR15 paint is fairly famous in this hobby. It can be painted directly over rust, and it absorbs moisture, which makes it stronger. It’s reputed to be nearly indestructable, flexible, and it can be just brushed on. It self-levels quite well, so no brushmarks are visible in the finished product.
However, POR15 paint will discolor if exposed to a lot of UV light, so they recommend topcoating it wherever it will see light. It’s also very shiny stuff, so it doesn’t look quite original in some applications. The POR15 “Chassis Coat Black” paint is designed to be applied on top of the regular POR15 basecoat. It’s nice, because unlike normal paint, it doesn’t have be applied over a wet basecoat. And it’s less shiny, so the overall appearance is pretty good.
To try this stuff out, I wire brushed the loose rust off of the two covers that go over the fuel and brake lines underneath the car. I then straightened out some of the bent areas and painted it with two coats of POR15, followed by a coat or two of the topcoat (just out the outside visible side of it). The results were pretty good. The metal was extensively pitted, and some of that is still visible. But, considering these parts are black and underneath the floor, the results were fine.
I also tried it out on two interior pieces- the trim ring around the shifter boot and the pedal base cover.
The trim ring was in good shape to begin with- i just wire wheeled off the old paint, then painted it with POR15. However, I put it on too thick, and got a few drips, so I wasn’t happy with how it looks. I ended up sandblasing it off and repainting with primer and Eastwood’s “under-hood black”.
This looked better, but I found that the sandblaster left the metal’s surface a bit rough, and the paint didn’t really look right. So, i’m going to sand it again, this time with a fine sandpaper, then repaint a third time. I figure spending the time now to learn how to properly prepare and paint these parts will save me time in the long run. It’s trickier than it looks to get the surface adequately prepared and to get good, thin, even coats of paint out of a spray can.
I also wasn’t happy with the results on the pedal base cover. The problem there was that the metal was quite heavily pitted, and this showed through the paint and didn’t look very attractive. I took a grinder and a 36 grit flap wheel and smoothed out some of the pitting. I had to be careful not to take off too much, or the metal might get too thin. Since I couldn’t get all of the pits out this way, I ordered some epoxy putty from the POR15 guys, which they claim is good for this kind of thing.
That arrived yesterday, so today I took a 150 grit sanding disc and sanded out some of the sanding marks from the rough flap wheel, then polished some of THOSE sanding marks out with a finer sanding disc. I re-painted the part with one coat of POR15 again, just to seal in any rust and establish a good base for the epoxy.
Once that dries I plan to apply the putty, let it dry, sand things down as smooth as I can get them, and re-topcoat with another coat of POR15, then topcoat that with the eastwood paint while it’s still tacky. (just to see how that combination works)
Again, this is not going to be a hugely visible part, so i’m sure the results will be OK- this is more about learning the processes than about these particular parts. Hopefully what I learn from these parts will make it easier to do a good job with more important ones later.
The parts I dropped off at the media blaster (including the subframe from #40912) are still there, nearly two weeks later. I’ve called twice now and have been told that “Craig isn’t answering his pages”, or “Craig is out of the office”. Apparently they can’t do anything around there without Craig. I’m not in a huge rush to get these parts back or anything, but I do want to know that they haven’t been lost! I’ll call again tomorrow if he doesn’t call me first and see what’s up.
So far i’m witholding judgement on this place. I have appropriately low expectations for customer service when it comes to a the car service industry. ;-)
I certainly hope that when I find a shop to do the body work, they will be a lot better in that regard. On that front, I haven’t called anyone yet, but I plan to start shortly. At this point I could have the engine and transmission out of the car in a day, and that’s really the main thing I was waiting for.
Along with all this paint experimentation, i’ve also been playing around with my cheapie sandblasting cabinet. The main problem i’ve had with it since day one is that the pickup tube was so lame. It’s basically just a metal pipe you’re supposed to jam into the sand. It never stay put, and was constantly coming out of the sand and just sucking air.
With my compressor being kind of small for the job to start with, wasting air isn’t something I want to do. I decided to go to tptools.com and replace the crappy pickup tube with one intended for one of their (much higher quality) cabinets. This turned out to be part #6442-17, and it worked great.
This pickup has two tubes instead of one, and is designed to mix air with the media as it picks it up. I also picked up a flexible hose from them which connects this pickup to the blasting gun. This turned out to be a good thing, because the pickup is a larger diameter than my old one and the old hose wouldn’t have worked. But the new hose fits right over the old hose on the gun end, so everything’s a perfect fit. I also had to cut an opening in the screen that sits at the bottom of the blasting cabinet (above the media) to allow the pickup hose to go through. This was easy though, it’s just a thin metal screen.
I’ve only quickly tested the new blasting setup, but it seems much improved, delivering a most consistent stream of media to the gun, with less wasted air (I hope).
I’ll test it a little more once some of the painted items i’m working on have dried to the point where i’m not worried about dust.
10/12/2003: Removed Driveshaft
On this car, the driveshaft has several pieces. On the back of the transmissi on is a rubber flex disc, to which a short drive shaft is attached. The other end of this short front shaft is in a center bearing in a rubber mount. From here, it goes through a U-joint to a longer driveshaft (with a short telescoping section in the front), through another U-joint, and to the rear axle.
Here is a diagram, and some photos of how this looked in the car:
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front |
middle |
rear |
I removed the assembly as follows:
First, from above, I removed the three bolts that attach the front driveshaft to the transmission flex disc. This was easy with an impact wrench, but would have been very very hard without it, since the drive shaft wants to rotate some what (even with the parking brake on).
Then I loosened the two bolts that hold the center bearing in place, which lets it slide a bit. This let me push front u-joint back about a quarter of an inch, so I could get a wrench on the bolts. I then removed the four bolts on this flange and the rear axle flange.
This required patience and a 13mm wrench, but wasn’t too bad- I could break them loose with the wrench and the parking brake on, and they came out easily enough (though it was tedious, since I could only thurn the nut a bit at a time with the wrench.. there’s no room for a ratchet).
The only problem I had was that my (new) craftsman 13mm wrench wouldn’t fit on these nuts! Turns out that it seems to be a bit smaller than 13mm- an older wrench I had worked fine. I’ll double check this tomorrow, but it looks like i’ll be exchanging this wrench at sears next time I am there.
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Anyway, once those 8 nuts are removed, the rear drive shaft drops right out.
One important thing to be aware of is that the front and rear drive shafts are
balanced at the factory as a unit- that is, they have to be aligned to
each other the same way when reassembled. There is a provided
alignment mark, fortunately:
I made sure I could find it before separating the two pieces completely, just in case. |
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At this point I just had to remove those two bolts I had already loosened, which held in the center bearing. The three front flange nuts I had already removed, so the front axle pulled out at this point.
So, all done. Check out these these front flange bolts though:
Each is a slightly different length, and the middle one has a really weird wear pattern in the middle. Maybe it was loose at some point? (it wasn’t now). I’ll replace them with the new (proper grade) bolts in any case.
Here are the flanges, now that the driveshaft is gone.
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transmission |
rear axle |
10/5/2003: Polishing Aluminum
Today I decided to try polishing aluminum, using the windshield washer bag’s cap as a test.
Some time ago, I cleaned up the bag itself, and it looks remarkably good.
I also have a spare, in somewhat shoddier condition, but with the prettier Foredit logo on it (I’m not sure if it’s an older style or what). The caps are identical, so I had two to play with.
(side note- similar, if not identical, washer bags for ferraris of the same age, in restored condition, go for $300+. amazing..)
The aluminum was heavily pitted and crusted over. Until I sanded one down, I didn’t even realize there was lettering under there.
I did some reading up on the polishing process and learned a few things. this page had a particularly concise summary of the issues.
I started on one of the caps with wet 600 grit sandpaper on a block, but I found that I started to lose the ‘FOREDIT - TORINO’ lettering before I got rid of all the pitting. I decided to switch to the other one, but to go more slowly, and do it by hand instead of against a block.
This gave better results, allowing more control over what area I sanded. After sanding, I polished it on the buffer to give it a little bit of shine- this isn’t supposed to be a highly polished item, so I didn’t want to go overboard. In order to leave the lettering clear, I had to leave some pitting. I just sealed it over with eastwood diamond clear paint to keep it from oxidizing more, and left it looking old, but intact. The other cap, whose lettering is already compromised, I think I will sand flat - it will not have any pitting, but it will also lose its lettering. I can choose between the two when the time comes to assemble the car.
Also today I won an ebay auction for 10 feet of original style cavis 4x6 mm windshield washer hose, which should be plenty to replace all of the hose, or at least all that is visible. The old hose was badly yellowed and stiff, so it was likely to leak when reconnected.
Tonight I came across another interesting web site (http://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfire/projects.shtml). An amazing amount of material, well beyond most typical restoration sites. I just started reading it over- it should keep me busy for a while. :)
9/29/2003: Subframe
Over the last several days, I have been disassembling the replacement subframe I plan to use for the car. I’ve got all the suspension components off now, and it is ready to be sandblasted and repainted. Right now it’s covered in a thick coating of some sort of epoxy paint, but it’s not all that resistant to chipping, and it’s a rather unauthentic looking blue color.
The plan is to find somewhere to sandblast it for me, then repaint it in black POR-15. I think it may need a bit of metal work, as it has a few dents and popped welds. We’ll see what it looks like once it’s stripped.
9/23/2003: Off with her hood!
I took off the hood and a few miscellaneous bits around the engine, including the throttle and choke linkages.
Broke two more bolts.. One on the choke linkage and one on the hood prop. Neither is a big deal to fix, at least.
Engine bay looks emptier each day:
The high point of the evening was cleaning up the washer bag. I just scrubbed it with simple green, and it cleaned up pretty well. I still need to polish the aluminum, and replace the tubing (which is old and brittle).
Here’s the before and after:
9/22/2003: Removing Engine Accessories
I started off the evening by bagging and labelling the various parts I have pulled off the front of the car (coolant hoses, horns, radiator shields, etc).
In order to finish filling up the box, I then decided to remove the one remaining bit of coolant plumbing, the metal hose that runs from the water pump back to the heater, along the intake.
After I did that, I decided to take off the thermostat housing, just to get one more component off the engine.
Of course, one of the bolts snapped off.. fortunately it was loose in the cylinder head- it just got stuck in the housing. But since it was stuck so solidly, I couldn’t pull the housing off- i needed to spin it around to unscrew the bolt the rest of the way.. but the water pump was in the way.
So I figured what the heck, i’ll take off the water pump. Turns out that at least one of the bolts on it is very hard to remove without taking off the generator.. so off that came. (see how this evening went?)
Anyway, after I got the generator and the water pump off, the thermostat housing unscrewed easily (victory!). I can drive the bolt out of it later- it’s just galled in the aluminum- it’s not threaded in, so I don’t need to use any kind of extraction technique- just banging it out (carefully) should suffice.
There was a lot of rust behind the water pump, and inside the engine water jack et. Bleh.
While I was on a roll, I also removed the starter. Once I remove the intake manifold and a few remaining wires, the engine will be ready for removal.
I can see the engine ID now:
The car is serial number 045977- I don’t know if these two numbers are supposed to match or not. If so, this is not the original block for this car. (not that I care)
This will take some significant planning, though. I suspect I will need to move the car before I can lift it out- the ceiling in my garage isn’t that high, and i’m not sure if there will be sufficient clearance, at least with the car so high off the ground. At the very least, I can pull out the drive shaft and get ready to remove the transmission (which needs to come out the bottom).
I suspect that I will need to pull the engine first, though, because it’s not well supported without the transmission holding it up- so if the car needs to be lowered and moved outside, that would be.. challenging :)
Anyway, over the next few days I will do some measuring and try to figure out what needs to happen here.
9/20/2003: Miscellaneous
Today I removed the horns and their associated wiring harness (it goes through a grommet in the driver’s side radiator shield thing and connects to a mysterious little unit tucked under the fender. Like the horns, it is clearly marked “made in france”. (blasphemy!). According to the parts manual:
It’s part #4039949. It must be a horn relay.
After that, I pulled the air cleaner housing and the air scoop thing, then removed the exhaust manifold. An impact wrench is invaluable for removing these rusty exhaust nuts. I only snapped one stud, and it was one I didn’t use the impact wrench on. One thing that drove me crazy was that half the exhaust nuts were 12mm, and half were 13mm (the correct size).
Also I removed a few remaining bits of (very unoriginal) coolant hose.
At this point I really shouldn’t proceed without labelling, bagging, and storing these parts I have removed, as they are really starting to pile up. I’ll do it tomorrow, honest!
9/19/2003: Removing the Radiator
I didn’t have much time today. I pulled the radiator and associated hoses. Lots of disgusting, rusty, only vaguely antifreeze-like water dumped out.
Now I can see the front of the engine and the damaged area of the
subframe better.
I’m overdue to sort and store some of the parts I have removed lately, so that’s on the agenda for tomorrow.
9/16/2003: Checking out the Subframe
I removed the front valence panel today and found that the subframe is damaged.
I remember that this was the case when my father bought the car- the previous owner had cut the subframe to make for a FIAT twincam conversion. I could have sworn that my father replaced the subframe to repair this when I was a kid, but apparently he never did. It’s a daunting task.
But I do have a replacement:
9/15/2003: Removing lights
I removed the front turn signals (unfortunately, the mounting studs were badly rusted up and all snapped off. they can be fixed, or I may just replaced the lights altogether, since the chrome is fairly pitted.
I also took off the tail lights (without breaking anything).
Between all the tail lights I have (about 3 pairs), I only have 3 fairly presentable lenses. They all have imperfections, but I think there are two that can be polished up to look reasonable. Also I think I have a few good gaskets, so that’s all set.
The chrome on the lights themselves are all badly pitted- that may be the hardest thing to fix.
I also took off the license plate lights. The wires that connect to them can easily fall back into a limbo area that’s hart to get to, so I made sure to label and stick them into the mounting holes so they won’t fall down.
I stripped the remaining bondo on the rear end of the car, so I can now see the full extent of the metalwork that will be needed.
Mostly it’s to the left of center, and above the bumper line. I believe I can see how to repair it all, replacing one section and smoothing a few others.
9/14/2003: Gas Tank and Headlights
I removed the gas tank and rinsed it out. It is full of rust, as expected. From the outside though it actually looks pretty decent. Check out the nasty fuel level sender:
The filler hose had basically disintegrated on its own, so I just cut it off.
The metal shield that goes below the tank is also largely rusted away, but enough remains to see what it’s supposed to look like. I could make a replacement, or just leave it out.
I also removed the headlights. This required a bit of dremelling, unfortunately, since the screws were pretty mangled.
I did this so that I could feel behind where the chrome trim attaches to the body- as I thought, it has a nut on the back of each end, and they’re rather hard to get to. I think the trim will stay on for now.
Well, at this point i’ve removed everything I wanted to in order to get a good look at the underside of the floor and rocker panels. Things look pretty good - aside from the obvious rust in the rocker panels, the rest of the floors are in good shape, requiring only minor patching.
The battery box is shot, probably more from leaking battery acid. It could be repaired or replaced.
Body work is, of course, needed throughout the car. Mostly in three areas though- the front end (rather tricky surfaces) the back end (a fairly flat panel), and the right side (a crease on and behind the door)
There are other small dents to contend with of course, and the trunk lid will need some TLC, but overall, so far I am pretty happy with how things seem to be turning out in the body shell.
At this point I really want to get the car to a shop that can evaluate and repair the rocker areas. I want to talk to some folks before I move ahead too much more on the car itself- it may make sense to pull out the engine/transmission at this point, for instance. No sense rushing things though.
I’ve got plenty of parts already removed that need to be sorted, cleaned and/or painted, and packed away.
9/9/2003: Scraping II
Scrape scrape scrape. I’ve now cleared off the driver’s side floor panel, much of the passenger side floor panel, and portions of several of the wheel wells.
My goal here is to expose all of the panels that adjoin the rocker area that I want to have checked out. So i’m not trying to completely remove every bit of undercoating at this point.
I’ve removed the two covers that cover the fuel line, brake line, and battery cable. I’m working on removing the battery cable.
The fuel tank is empty (fortunately). I think i’ll try to remove it (and remove the fuel line) some time soon as well. There’s a lot of undercoating behind the fuel tank which I could scrape off.
Tonight I also removed the rear bumper and ground off the bondo that was on the back panel of the car, just ot see how deep the dent was. Kinda deep. Not terrible, but it certainly couldn’t be filled with bondo :)
I think i’m at the point where I could start looking into shops to do the rocker panel work though. Depending on what they’ll be doing, I’ll decide how much more the car needs to be disassembled first.
9/2/2003: Floor Scraping I
I spent nearly an hour on my back with the heat gun and scraper, removing under coating. I cleared a section about a foot wide and 4 feet long. So far, things look good.
This is going to take a long time to finish though. I’ll do it a little at a time to avoid going insane.
9/1/2003: Removing the exhaust
I put the car up on jack stands (eep) and removed the exhaust tonight. Since the pipes seem to be in reasonable condition, I did try to avoid cutting it when I removed it, but it was necessary to make one cut- the entire exhaust, from behind the axle to the header connection, is all one piece. There was just no way I could maneuver this to get it over the axle. I’m not sure how my dad ever installed it :) It might be possible if I lifted the car by the body rather than with axle stands, but I am not willing to do that at this point, since I don’t have any jacking points I trust.
Anyway, the exhaust is out now. I’ll set it aside and decide whether to reuse any of it down the road. At the least, I will need a new header pipe made up for it, since the old one was jury-rigged with that “flexible pipe” stuff. It fell apart readily. (The stock exhaust for these cars is a single pipe at this point, but the aftermarket exhaust that is presently in the car has two pipes at that point, merging them instead at the first muffler- so it looks like the front pipe was cut before the merge, and then connected to the rest of the exhaust with flexible pipes)
9/1/2003: Removing the grille and front bumper
I removed two stuck nuts by cutting them with a dremel tool and cutting discs. It was tough not to damage the trim around them while doing this, but since it’s on the underside of the nose, it’s not particularly visible even if I did enlarge the openings a bit (which I did, just a tad)
This let me pull off the nose trim and the grille. I can see how wrinkled and crooked things are throughout the front of the car. the bumper is particularly tweaked. I removed it and found that one of the mounting points was totally out of place. Bumpers are particularly hard to find for these cars- I do have a spare set in the barn, but am not sure of their condition at the moment. Since the bumpers would be one of the last things to go back on the car, I don’t need to worry too much about it quite yet.
Now that the trim is out of the way around the damaged parts of the nose, I can get a pretty good idea of what sheetmetal I would most likely want to salvage from the parts car, if it’s in decent shape. Next time I am at the barn, I will take a closer look.
8/31/2003: Exposing the areas that need body work
The mission for the day was to remove any trim pieces that were right near the areas I want to have checked out for body work.
I began by removing the chrome rocker panel trim strips on both sides. I seem to have bent the passenger side one slightly, but it looks like it can be straightened. About half of the retaining clips that held these on were totally rusted away (crumbly dust in the shape of a clip ;-). The other half are almost as bad. There are a few reasonably decent ones that can be used as a template to locate or fabricate new clips though.
I also removed the top trim strip, the top itself, and the cardboard panel that was behind it (from what I can remember, this was a temporary replacement that my dad made for a missing part- I need to find out what the original panel looked like).
I also decided to remove the trunklid to see why it fits poorly and sticks against the body when you open it. I found the cause- the part of the trunklid that the hinges attach to is bent and somewhat torn, probably from placing something heavy on top of the trunk at some point. This will need to be corrected.
I also went back to the nose, to see if I could get the chrome trim piece that goes along the front edge off. It’s held on by three nuts, but there seems to be no way to hold the other end of these bolts so the rusty nuts can be removed. I did get one off (mostly by luck). The other two are stuck. One is 10mm, one is 7/16”. Clearly not original :) I decided to try to remove the rest of the grille, so this part could move more freely. However, after removing the 4 screws that hold it on, I found that it wouldn’t clear the bumper on one side. The bumper is rather twisted, so it sticks up too far on that side. OK, so the bumper has to go first. *sigh*
I sprayed the two main bolts that hold the bumper on with penetrating oil, and decided to return to this another day. It looks as if I might need to take ou t the headlights to be able to reach in and get to the backs of the other two b olts that hold the bumper on. So that can wait a while longer.
I also took a scraper to the undercoating to see what I had to deal with there.
It’s pretty tough stuff. Heating it with a heat gun seems to help soften it en ough to scrape it off though. In the experimental area I tried, it looks good underneath. I need to get the car up in the air before I can do any serious s craping though.
8/30/2003: Floors Exposed
The floors are now fully exposed- i’ve removed all of the rubber mats which were glued down to the rockers and floor crossmembers.
I managed to get the mats off without doing much damage. In a few cases I tore them slightly, but usually I just made a prexisting tear worse.
We’ll have to see how these clean up- some of them may be reusable, and others will need to be replaced. Used ones are available from Obert, and new ones are available (at a price!) from Re-Originals.
The inner rocker panels look good! Solid everywhere. Generally the floors are in good shape as well, with some rust and pitting, but, for the most part, nothing that really needs replacement.
We’ll see how they look after being blasted though. I’d anticipate at least a few areas needing patching.