8/8/2005: Metalwork 4..
So I’m working on the patch panel for the area I cut out of the right
side of the car in the last entry. That’s actually going quite well.
I’d say that I’ve got the patch looking almost as good as the piece of
metal I cut out. Um. Hm. Well, there’s a little more work to go ;-)
The patch was shaped by using a plastic teardrop bossing mallet and a
beater bag to stretch the metal in the right areas (obviously there’s
only a little stretch/curvature on the right, but a bunch in the
flared section on the left. Then I used a chisel-ish post dolly to
fine tune the crease line, and a pair of pliers wrapped in duct tape
to tip the edge over where it goes into the wheel opening. This was
then tucked a bit (using a tucking fork) and flattened.
I’ll describe this process in more detail when I do the next patch. I
was still figuring it all out myself, so I didn’t take pictures or anything.
Anyway, there’s still a lot more work to go there to get it perfect,
so I decided to do something else instead for a while.
I moved back to working on the left tail light area. This is an area
I’ve been working on (on and off) for months. I finally have gotten
it about as good as I think I will be able to.
After I got the outside surface pretty smooth, I tweaked the light
housing mounting surface quite a bit to get it reasonably flat. I
think I’m pretty happy with it now, but I’ll probably tweak it a
little more after the center rear panel has been fixed.
|
| Before |
|
|
| After |
|
OK, well, the difference is impossible to see in these pictures.. trust me
though, there should be very little filler this time around.
I’m using the same metalfinishing techniques here as usual. I use a
sharpie and a piece of 220 grit sandpaper on a flat board to highlight
the low spots, and then use a slapper and dolly to work them up. Then
the shrinking disc is used to tighten out anything I overstretch in
the process. Much of the art of this is just selecting the right
dolly to match the surface you’re working and figuring out how hard to
hit it to move the metal without stretching it too much.
I made a lot of mistakes here, but the nice thing about these
techniques is that pretty much any mistake can be undone. With enough
time and good access to the back of a panel, it can be perfect again
no matter what you do to it :)
The next area I tackled was the on the right lower corner of the back
of the car, where the bumper attaches. When this car was hit
originally and the back of it was damaged, the bumper was pushed in
somewhat, and it twisted this mounting point, which made a nice dent.
There was a reinforcing plate behind the panel which I had to remove
first before I could straighten the panel. It’s held on with 4 spot
welds, which I drilled out.
I didn’t take a “before” photo of this area, but here’s how it looks
after being roughed into shape. I basically just pushed out the dent
by smacking it from behind with a dolly. Now I have to fine tune it
and planish out all the little dents that will remain.
8/9/2005 23:13:11
Josh,
It looks like the metal finishing class is working out well. A good buddy of mine does restoration work on Hot Rods and other cars that intrest him, just finished a 64 AC 260 Cobra. one of the orginal 13, with aluminum body, I greatly appreciate what you are going though.
Tim
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